Zippered covered journals... A tutorial-ish

Let me just say that these are a bit crazy making but with a stitch ripper and a bit of time, you can be most successful!  I called it a tutorial-ish because your journal may be a different size than mine.  

You need a hardback journal to cover.  Not too big and not too small.  This one is 8.25" by 6".  The size of your journal is really important because you need a long enough zipper to go all the way around.  In this case, I used the longest dress zipper I could find at 22" or 55 cm if you are Canadian like me.  If you have a larger journal, you can buy a duvet zipper and trim it to length.  Duvet zippers are a lighter weight so it is a bit of a trade off.  In my technicolour dream world, I would have liked metal zippers but fine enough gauge and long enough was impossible to find.  Boo hiss. So here we go.

You need fabric, a zip, batting and a journal.  I used a bit of linen for the spine since I wanted to really show off Elizabeth Olwen's Wildwood fabric, I did not do any piecing other than the spine.

Measure the entire width of your journal when open and add 10".  Keep that in mind as you construct your cover.
1)  linen strip measures 3.5" by 10".
2) feature fabric 2-10" by 9.75"
3) batting approx 11" by 22"
4) inner lining, optional but makes a neat finish, 1 -10" by 11" .  I used linen.

Piece linen and the front and back panels of your feature fabric.  Place over batting and quilt as desired.  I kept the quilting minimal, with a row on either side of the spine as you can see below.

Test drive your cover on your journal and mark where you flaps will fold under.  Make sure they are even.  Narrow hem the flap ends.  Trim your cover so that you have a 1/2" of slack top and bottom. Remember that you are sewing on binding but you need to have enough slack to get the journal in and not be too tight.

Place lining on the inside of your cover, fold flaps over.  The lining does not need to be as wide as your cover but close.  Measure the centre of your cover top and bottom and mark as I have with pins.  This is very, very important as it dictates the placement of your zipper.  If you are off, then your cover will be super wonky.

Place your opened zipper at the pin marking the bottom edge of your cover.  Notice the placement of the zipper tab.  It is facing up.  This is very important.  Leave the zipper end dangling as shown in the photo.

Start stitching from as close as you can get to the zipper tab, a scant 1/4" from the edge. I used my quarter inch walking foot.  Snazzy.  I never use a zipper foot and I did not pin the zipper.  Be brave.  You can do it.

When you get to the corner, stop 1/4" from the corner and pivot your pressure foot.  At the same time, turn the zipper so it is now around the corner.  Resume stitching, making sure you do not catch any zipper teeth.  Do not worry if the zipper tap scrunches up around the corner, this will be covered by your binding.  So clever.

Continue around the next corner and overlap the zipper ends as you can see in this picture.  So tricky.  Keep going until you stitch all the way around.  Again, get as close as you can to the zipper tab but it is acceptable to have a little bit unstitched.  This will get taken care of.

 You now have something that looks like this.  Try your zipper out and see how clever you are.

I made a lot of them.

Now you need some binding.  I used 2.25" double fold binding.  And I might add that I was doing this while my husband was renovating my sewing room.

 Attach binding, starting half way down one side.  You will need to start and stop stitching at the zipper tab.  You will finish this bit by hand.  Sigh.

And all you need to do now is hand sew your binding down for a nice finish.  Finish the zipper tab end by hand as well, tucking the zipper end in to the spine of your cover.  Give it a little bit of slack and tack down the zipper tab end.  Test drive your zipper before you tack it down so you can ease the fit.  There you go.  You are done.  Try it out.

Zippy Pouches.... tips and hints

The Fraser Valley Modern Quilt Guild is swapping zippy pouches with the Victoria Modern Quilt Guild These are just a few little zippy pouch tricks that I use when making a pouch.  I typically make zipper tabs for each end of the zipper.  These ones are 2 pieces of fabric cut 2" by 3".  The ends are turned under and pressed and then folded in half.  I cut the ends off the zipper, including the metal zipper stops.  Be careful not to wreck your zipper at this point with pulling the zipper pull off the end.  (I have done this before and it did not make me happy!) Once the zipper is trimmed, one end at a time, place the zipper tab over the end and stitch.  2 rows of stitching is nice.  Then trim the tab to line up with the edge of the zipper tape.  The length of your zipper dictates how big your pouch fabric pieces are.  I tend to prepare the zipper and then cut the fabric for the pouch.  This particular zipper with tabs is 12" long.

This next step is difficult to photograph but this step cuts down on the bulk in the side seam and corners.  Squidge the zipper tape out of the trimmed tab and trim the zipper tape and teeth close to the stitching lines.  That little bit of zipper sticking out gets trimmed off.

This is the prepared zipper and all the bits I trimmed off the zipper and zipper tabs.

I always sew a stitching line with my pouch main body and without the lining.  This stitching line gives you a guide to stitch the zipper sandwich together.  I NEVER use a zipper foot but stitch along until I need to move the zipper pull out of the way by raising the pressure foot.  

This is the completed pouch before stitching the side seams.  The lining is sewn down with the zipper and the pouch is ready for the zipper top stitching.  See how the zipper tabs look?

Before sewing the side seams, you want to make sure you line up the seam on the front and the back of the pouch and you need to pinch the zipper tabs like I am doing in the photo.  I have pushed and pinched the zipper tab towards the main body of the pouch and pinned securely before stitching.  Stitch the side seams and the bottom of the pouch and lining, leaving your turning opening in the lining bottom.  I boxed the corners of this pouch just for fun.  Turn your pouch, check the corners, poking out the zipper tabs nicely.

Pretty corners and I will show off the finished pouch tomorrow!

Wonky Wonky Little Star Table Runner Tutorial

Wonky Wonky
Little Star Table Runner

Materials:

Background
fabric:  approx. 1/3 of yard cut into
32-4” squares (feel free to use low volume, scrappy white… as long as you have
32 4” squares)

Star
fabric:  Assorted Christmas prints…. This
is just a guide based on the sample.
Feel free to use more prints for more variety.  A full star will require 5-4” squares. This
is a great way to use up Christmas fabric scraps.

Scrap
Management Tip:  I keep all my Christmas
scraps in one bin. Makes them so much easier to find.

Print A:  10-4” squares

Print B:  9-4” squares

Print C:  9-4” squares
Print D:  6-4” squares
Print E:  6-4” squares

Batting and
Backing:  16” by 40”  (feel free to piece your back and the Batting
will be used as your design wall for this project as well as your batting)

Binding
fabric:  about ¼ yard (approx.. 120” of
binding at 2.5” ) You can always make it scrappy.

Please read the instructions all the way through just to make sure you know what you are up to!  You do not sew any of your squares together until your entire table runner is laid out and you are happy with the colour placement.  

Hint!  Use the picture of the completed table runner to help you with your layout.

Wonky Scrappy Little Star Tutorial... because this is just so much
fun!

Step One:  Wonky Star preparation

Cut your scraps into 4”squares.  

Cut your background fabric into 4” squares as well. 

For every star you will need  5 of the print squares. 
Leave one square whole and cut 4 of the matching squares on the diagonal
yielding 8 triangles.

Step 2:  Wonky Star construction

Take one background square and place one triangle in the most
wonky way possible as in the above photos.  My wonky may be different from
your wonky and that is just fine.  Let your inner wonky shine!

Stitch with a quarter inch seam.  You can do it!!

Trim your little leftover corner.  I use scissors because I "trim as I go" right at the

machine. 

Finger press the wonky little star point.  

Then place your next point in true wonky fashion.  Then
stitch. 

Trim the corners here as well.  Make all 4 of your wonky star
points in the same manner but let each be their own wonky individual
self.  The point is that the points do not have to be matching. 

Time to press!  I press the first one and then pile the next
on top, lining up the corners and pressing in a pile until I have all four of
the points in a neat and tidy pressed pile.  You might like to be more
quilt professional and less quilt lazy but I like to get this part done as
quickly as possible. 

*Take your neat and tidy, pressed pile to the cutting mat and trim
all 4 of the point blocks into perfect 4” squares again.  Discard your
trimmings. 

Step 3:  Take your four star
point squares and your matching print square and place your newly completed
wonky star into the mix.  Note how the stars are all imbedded or
nested? 

Hint:  This is one project where you need to build your project as you go.
It is best to start in the middle of the design wall and build outwards.
You will notice as you build the  layout that you also get a cool little
pinwheel thing happening between the stars with your background fabric.
How excellent!

*You will fill in the spots with the leftover star points to
complete the 4 by 10 layout as in the picture above. 

*Once you are happy with the layout and have checked for colour
placement and proximity, start sewing your squares together by rows.

*Once all the rows are completed, then sew the rows
together.  Pin at each seam so your seams match up carefully.  Again,
always check to makes sure your stars are lined up nicely. 

Sandwich, quilt, bind and enjoy

 Options:  You can make your squares different sizes.
I made both a pillow and runner with 2.5" squares.  And a quilt with 4” squares.

Who is going camping? a little sleeping bag tutorial

This is the time of year when lots of people go camping.  How much fun is it for your little ones to have a sleeping bag for their favourite stuffed companion or doll?  I can remember my mum making a little sleeping bag for one of my dolls.  The funny thing was that we were going on a back packing canoe trip so I was allowed only one toy and it had to be tiny.  I had a tiny little doll about 4" long and mum made her a wee sleeping bag.  I must confess I still have the doll and the sleeping bag!  Anyway... let's get busy!

Supplies:
-2 rectangles of fabric-19.5" x 28"  (one for lining and one for the outer bag)
-1 small piece of cute fabric for a patch on the sleeping bag (I used the same fabric for this as for part of the pillow case to tie the 2 together)
-2- 24"  lengths of grograin ribbon for sleeping bag ties

(I used a flannelette for the lining... so cozy!)

I made a boy version last year!   Feel free to adjust the length of the sleeping bag to accommodate the toy.  This size should work for an American Girl doll.  My baby doll model is approximately 17" long and she still had toe room.

Method:
1.  With the rectangles right sides together and then folded in half to form the sleeping bag.  Your rectangle, when folded will measure 19.5" by 14".  Use a plate to mark a curve on one corner of the fabric on the non-folded edge.  Way to go!

2.  Unfold the fabric and taking only the outer sleeping bag fabric, place the decorative patch of fabric wherever you like.  I like to place it near the bottom and close to where the bag will be folded.  I used my pinking blade rotary cutter.  Nice!  Place wrong side of patch to right side of bag fabric.  Stitch 1/4" from the edge around the patch.  

 3.  Sandwich the bag, right sides together.  Pin and stitch 1/4" seam around the outside of the bag, leaving an opening near the bottom edge to turn the bag.  Turn and press.  Slip stitch the opening closed.

4.  Fold the bag in half, matching edges carefully.  Place the two sections of  ribbon (folded in half) inside the sleeping bag and pin.  Make sure the folded edge of the ribbon is placed inside the sleeping bag enough to catch it in the top stitching you are about to do.  I placed the ribbon 1.5" from the folded edge and then 5" from the folded edge of the bag.  Pin!

5.  Notice how the pins, do not go all the way to the top edge of the sleeping bag?  I stopped pinning 7" from the top edge.  That will form the opening of the sleeping bag, allowing easy access in and out of the sleeping bag.

Topstitch 1/4" from the edge of the sleeping bag, all the way around until you have reached the pin marking the 7" opening,  Secure your stitching and then stitch close to the edge for a second row of topstitching!   You are done.  How cute is that?

You can also make a pillow.  My tutorial can be found here!

To fold up and roll the bag, fold in half lengthwise and roll from the non-ribboned edge.  Secure the roll with the ribbon ties.  If your little one is not up to tying, then use wider ribbon with a velcro closure attached to the ribbon.  This would be a bit more fiddly to make but less frustrating for littles.

All snug!  Don't feed the bears!

Let's Get Acquainted Blog Hop!

I'm Cathy and this is what I am working on!

  

Hi there!  Welcome, if you are visiting from the Let's Get Acquainted Blog Hop that Beth from Plum and June is hosting so fabulously!  I am Cathy and I have been blogging for about a year and a half.  I seriously love fabric.   I make mostly bed size quilts but have been known to crank out baby quilts too. I quilt all my quilts myself and I always finish bindings by hand, just so you know.  That is one of those questions that is often asked.  I also tend to mix up fabric lines and rarely use fabric from just one line in a quilt.  My husband is a great quilt colour advisor.  OH!  And Canadians spell colour with a "u".   I love scraps and try to make sure I pepper my quilting with scrap quilts as well.  I love colour and like to think that I am not afraid to use it!  I work full time as an elementary school principal but manage to find lots of sewing time at home.  We live on a small blueberry farm about an hour and a bit outside of Vancouver, Canada. I hope you have a look at some of my finished quilts while you are visiting.  You can see a few of them up on my blog header and then click on the tabs to see finishes from last year and this year. 

Beth had a few questions for us and here are a few answers...

Favourite quilting tip:  Use good thread.  Hera markers are awesome.  Be careful with your rotary cutter.  I cut my finger badly this summer.  Eek!

Favourite Quilting Book:  I have to say that as a go to book, Elizabeth Hartman's book The Practical Guide to Patchwork is fabulous.  Her blog is awesome too.  

If I had only known before I started blogging:  Hmm.  Just do it.  Make sure you are not a no reply blogger.  And comment on other blogs.  People like to read comments and will often check out your blog as a result.  Link up with lots of linky parties like Lily's Quilts Fresh Sewing Day, Lee's Work in Progress Wednesdays and Quilt Story's Fabric Tuesdays.

And I have a tutorial for you! Beth has said something about novelty fabric and I happened to see some Tinkerbell fabric in my stash.  Then I thought that I should think about boys too and the rest just fell into place. I picked out some Bugs in a Jar scraps and a few other things.   I just love making these!  

Waldo is going camping

pillow and sleeping bag?

comfy!

would fit a teddy or a doll

and the doll version

Doll pillow and pillow case tutorial

Supplies:

Some fabric scraps that suit your fancy, a bit of lace trim (skip if making boy version) and some fiberfill stuffing for the pillow.



For the pillow: 

1 piece of fabric 8" x 10.5"  (I like to use stripes because then it looks like ticking!)

Turn under one edge 1/4" and press.  Fold in half and sew 2 sides together, leaving the end with the pressed under edge open for turning and stuffing.  Use a 1/4" seam.  Turn, stuff lightly for dolly comfort.  Sew close to the edge finishing your wee pillow.

For the Pillowcase:

1 piece of fabric 12.5" x 6.5" (main fabric choice)
1 piece of fabric 12.5" x 4"  (contrast)

Place wrong sides together.  Don't forget to place your lace trim in between the two fabrics! Sew with a 1/4" seam.  Press the seam towards the contrasting fabric and turn under 1/4" along the edge of the contrast.  Pin, carefully matching the seam.  Sew down the long side and the end of the pillow case.  Turn and very carefully fold under the contrast so the turned under edge just meets the pressed seam.  Very carefully sew along the edge.   It is a little tricky but it can be done!  I have taken lots of pictures for you.  If you mess up and you don't like your finished seam, you can very nicely hide the whole shebang with  rick rack or a strip of ribbon.  Dolls are very forgiving!

Press to make it pretty and tuck your little pillow inside the case.  Ahhh, so cute!  Don't you feel so very clever?  And what a lovely little gift for a child.  Great stocking stuffer or a little extra something with a gift.  It doesn't have to go along with a quilt although that makes it all the more special!  Doll quilts are a great way to practice your free motion quilting.  Look!  Stars!  I will put up the sleeping bag tutorial in a few days.  It was way too much fun and my husband tells me I am way too old to be playing with dolls in the woods.  Tee hee hee!  Thanks for stopping by!!!!